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Due to the nature of a bearing and it’s very smooth rotation, this helps to avoid the router bit juddering or jumping around, keeping any cuts dead straight and accurate to the surface you are working on. In this episode of Getting Started in Woodworking, the forth in our series on building an oak bookcase, we demonstrate how to cut accurate dadoes and rabbets with a router and a simple jig.
What distinguishes these bits from others (like a straight bit used for rabbeting) is the addition of a circular pilot bearing at the bit’s tip that acts like a spinning wheel riding along the edge of the piece being cut, guiding the cutting arm to the perfect depth. As a result, the width of the cut is determined by the size of the bearing, with a smaller bearing producing a wider cut. The most common sizes of rabbet bits are 1¼ inches and 1⅜ inches, and most bits come with several interchangeable bearings ranging from ⅜-inch to 1⅛ inches. Unlike performing any of these tasks using other tools such as planes or saws, a router with the correct bit will give a 100% accurate and clean cut when used correctly. Most routers these days come with interchangeable 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch collets so you can swap between the different sizes if needed, however this isn’t always the case with the smaller palm routers as most only take the 1/4 inch shanks. On its own, the router is useless, but coupled with the correct bit you can create a masterpiece! To these ends here is a run down of the most popular router bits and different shapes or mouldings they cut. Straight Cut Router Bits
What are the Different Parts of a Router Bit?
Dadoes are square notches cut into the surface of a piece of lumber that hold the end of a mating board. Dadoes generally run across the grain. When cut with the grain, they’re referred to as grooves. Dadoes are a perfect when building shelving or cabinetry as a way to join shelves and partitions. For our bookcase project, we reinforced our dadoes with screws, although that added strength isn’t essential to the joint. Flush trim bits come in a variety of cutting arm lengths and diameters, but the most common are ½-inch diameter by a 1-inch length with a ¼-inch shank. Carbide bits are tougher than standard HSS bits so on the whole will last much longer and keep their sharpness for considerably longer, however they are brittle and can easily damage if dropped you need to take care of them! Essentially the shank is the part of the bit that your router collet grips on to so that when the motor is running it allows the bit to rotate and do its work. Generally, router bit shanks are available in two different sizes; 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. Or I could use my new table saw to cut twice and get a rabbet like that... but I was wondering why I'm finding it difficult to source this - usually there's a reason, right?
As they effectively cut a 45° bevel edge, they are also commonly used to ‘bevel” the edges of two adjoining surfaces to create a mitre joint so that they meet to form a right angle.
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The final main element of a router bit is the bearing guide that normally features at the base or tip of a bit but can sometimes appear at the top.
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