EverBuild 406 Stabilising Solution 5 Litre

Product Information

One coat should normally be sufficient but very porous surfaces may require additional coats. Drying time will vary depending on the ambient temperature, but normally 4 – 8 hours should be allowed for each coat to fully dry. For the best results allow surfaces to cure for a minimum of 24 hours before applying the Weatherflex Smooth Masonry Paint. DO NOT apply when air or surface temperatures are below 8 °C. Below is a sample of questions received on the subject of stabilising primers… White dust on stonework?

Furthermore, the stabilising solution and PVA will both act to keep any moisture within the concrete, hence why you experiencing problems. The moisture will force its way out eventually.For our situation it is a little too soon to tell the success of Lakeland’s stabilising solution on our bathroom problem wall area. This one wall area (a small cluster of patches) is particularly troublesome with a gradual peeling and bubbling appearance (under the painted surface) And this taking time to reappear once you cover with a fresh coat of paint. However what we have noticed is the Lakeland’s stabilising solution is not only pleasant and odourless —and oddly almost as transparent as tap water—and you're not sure if this only a water that you’re applying : ) However a noticeable difference is apparent once we painted over Lakeland's stabilising solution with white pigmented organic emulsion paint There seems to be a far more opaque surface quality that seems to suggest that not only is Lakeland's stabilising solution useful for troublesome unstable or damp patches on many types of wall surfaces but also this medium improves the colour density of the applied painted areas. I have tried stabilising solution and PVA but the problem keeps recurring. Any suggestions to prevent this happening would be helpful. When you have removed as much loose material as possible, treat the worst affected areas with a stabilising solution which will bind any reaming loose martial, presenting you with a solid surface on which to paint. Only do this on the very worst affected areas though. Allows painting of new render finishes and re-pointing repairs without alkaline contamination of the paint, which would otherwise delay painting by up to 2 months. Would you ever used a watered down first coat on areas of render that are dry and chalky so have been treated with stabilising solution?

You may find that this process removes a lot of the loose particles on the surface, presenting you with a solid surface which can easily be primed with a thineed solution of masonry paint. Dry and chalky areas can sometimes be primed with a watered down coat. But if the area has already been treated with a stabilising solution I would paint over this with unthinned masonry paint. I would not normally advise painting since this is going to present yet another barrier to any trapped moisture evaporating away naturally without causing further damage.I was doing same repair work prior to painting a couple of weeks ago, used the Toupret Ex filler , it's superb If this be the case then scrape off any loos paint, allow to dry out over a period of a few weeks and paint again. You may well find this is an ongoing process or it may be isolated to one or two problem areas. Using a stabiliser where not absolutely necessary can impede the performance of any subsequent coats because it isn’t ‘breathable’ and may keep any natural moisture trapped beneath the wall’s surface. Remove as much as the dust as you can with a dry brush and scraper and see how it looks. If the surface is fairly solid try priming it with a thinned coat of masonry paint. If that goes OK proceed with over-painting. If it’s still loose you may have to seal the areas affected with a stabilising solution – but only as a last resort.